Find the bevel and push the point across the stone, 4- 6 times will do it. Birdcage awls should be free hand sharpened in the same manner you would for a narrow chisel. Awls can easily groove the surface of a stone so it's a good idea to use the edge of the stone for sharpening your awls. Awls can be pushed into the stone's surface as the blade is rotated, maintaining the conical point. What is really required is a solid surface sharpening media in the 1,000 grit range, just like that used for a marking knife. A few strokes and you'll be good to go.Īwls and Bird Cage Awls do not benefit much from stropping but it can be tried once or twice initially. The Mini-Hone can be held much closer to the eye and the bevel can be seen, set and maintained very easily while the blade is drawn across it's surface. We have found that a accomplishes this task in a much more user friendly fashion. The method is much like that used for stropping and again a free hand technique must be employed. An oil stone in the 1,000 grit range, an equivalent water stone, sandpaper (on a substrate such as glass) may be used. About 4 – 6 strokes each way and your marking knife should be ready for work again.Įventually, the edge will need to be restored and a more intense abrasive will be necessary. Find the bevel and with medium pressure, draw the edge smoothly away from you for the right edge and toward you for the left edge. Several drops of mineral oil applied to the leather first will allow the compound to form a paste and penetrate the leather, assuring excellent adhesion. Charge the strop with a good purpose designed rouge such as Veritas Honing Compound. If a little fuzz is created, you're good to go and if not, it's time to strop it. Check the edge by pushing it across the back of a finger nail every so often. Periodic stropping with a leather strop will keep your Czeck Edge marking knife sharp for a good while. Marking knives are not intended for stock removal so their sharpening protocol is not as critical nor as intense as the regimen followed for chisels and plane irons. The marking knife should cut the wood fibers easily and neatly, without excessive penetration into the stock. The more distinct the line, the better the cutting tool will find and keep it's mark. The main idea behind the use of a marking knife is to create a registration line for a chisel, handsaw or other appropriate tool. They are essentially maintenance free and should never require sharpening in normal use.Ĭzeck Edge Marking Knives need to be kept sharp, but not atom splitting sharp. Please note that the Carbide Super Kadet II and Bird Cage Awl have none of the blade rust concerns discussed above because their blades have almost zero carbon content. The Klingspor Sandflex Hand Block is the one recommended and will duplicate the satin finish applied to Czeck Edge blade surfaces. In the event that rust does form, an abrasive eraser is an efficient method of rust removal. Renaissance Wax is one that is recommended highly. ( The Bird Cage Awls are made from A2 tool steel and it shares almost the same rust susceptibility as 01.) A light coat of silicon free wax should be kept on the blade surfaces to form a durable barrier against moisture to prevent rust. O1 has marvelous qualities for tool use but rust resistance is unfortunately, not one of them. The good news is that shellac is a very easily renewable finish and a few drops on a rag applied to the damaged or worn area can restore your tool's finish to like new condition.Ĭzeck Edge marking knive blades are made from O1 tool steel. Shellac provides some protection from continual shop use but is very susceptible to damage from water and beverages. The exotic wood handles on Czeck Edge Tools are finished with super blonde shellac mixed 5:1 with boiled linseed oil (BLO).
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